지리산국립공원 (산청)

After reaching the peak of Mt. Taebaek (태백산, 太白山) two years ago, I set my sight on Mt. Jiri (지리산, 智異山). It was a challenge I thought I was ready for. But I was wrong, it was much more difficult than I expected. I did not reach the peak of Mt. Jiri eventually due to miscalculation and poor fitness. I returned with a badly aching body and more respect for it's greatness. 

Before the trip, I did my my research on the mountain with the help of the Korea National Park Service's webpage (english.knps.or.kr). The webpage contains very good explanation of the various hiking courses. On the hindsight, I should have taken note of the difficulty level of each course. On a scale of A-D with A being the hardest,  "Jungsanri (Jangteomok) Course", the course which I chose, was graded B. By the way, there wasn't much choice to begin with because many of the hiking courses were closed during the month of April due to high risk of forest fire.

In preparation for the climb, I stayed one night in Jinju (진주, 晉州). The following morning, I bought a bus ticket to Jungsan-ri (중산리, 中山里) at Jinju Inter-city Bus Terminal (진주시외버스터미널) for 5,900won. Jungsan-ri is located at South Gyeongsang Province, Sancheong County (경상남도 산청군, 慶尙南道 山淸郡). The bus ride took about one hour. The uphill walk from Jungsan-ri bus stop to the start of the hiking course took another forty minutes. I have with me for the climb, three rows of gimbaps, one litre of water and 15kg of load. I guess failure was predetermined even before muscle fatigue set in. I have too little food and liquid and too heavy load.

By the time I reached the "Knife Rock" (칼바위), I knew I would not be capable of reaching the peak. Despite that, I was determined to persevere until Beopgye Temple in spite of pain, thirst and muscle fatigue. Looking back, I was surprised I made it that far.

Mt Jiri, Cheonwang Peak (지리산 천왕봉, 智異山 天王峰) at 1,915m above sea level. So near yet so far.

The bus stop at Jungsan-ri (중산리, 中山里）

Jirisan National Park (지리산국립공원, 智異山國立公園). This was not even the starting point but I was already excited

This pension is called "The Sound of Water and Wind" (물소리바람소리펜션). It's true, you can really hear them.

Resting area after passing through the ticket booth. It was free passage on the day of my visit.

Shicheon Stream (시천천) flowing down Mt. Jiri

Start of ascent (637m above sea level). Cheonwang Peak was "only" 5.2km away. Feeling optimistic and motivated.

Tongcheon-gil, (통천길, 通天路）. Depending on how one read it, Tongcheon-gil can either mean "Road to Cheonwang Peak" or "Passage to Heaven". For me, it almost became the latter (touch wood). 

A benign slope at the start which hides the treacherous terrain ahea.

The path was not only rocky, it could also be wet.

The "Knife Rock" (칼바위). Rested here for a long while but didn't seem to regain much energy.

The toughest climb started after crossing this suspension bridge.

Resting to recover from muscle fatigue while watching flowing stream below the suspension bridge.

Inconspicuous wild flowers along the route were only noticeable when I fell flat on my path (not exactly but almost)

A butterfly landed on my path. After this shot, I was too weak and tired to take any more photo.

Persevered until I reached Rotary Shelter (로타리대피소). It was like an oasis to me. I was worn out and thirsty.

What I needed most - spring water. A sip of the water and I felt like I have my soul cleansed.

A moment of peace at Beopgye Temple (법계사, 法界寺), Mt Jiri.

Spring spirit has reached the mountain

Two kilometres more to Cheonwang Peak but I was too exhausted to continue.

My best effort of the day - reached Beopgye Temple (1,450m)

On the return route, I saw a banner I missed earlier. What it roughly said was, "Heart attack is the number two cause of death in Korea and about 60% of death that occurred at Mt. Jiri was due to it." I could definitely identify with the risk. My heart was pumping so hard at some point in time I felt it was about to burst. However, I was confident of my heart's condition. I have gone through the full suite of heart tests from stress ECG to calcium deposit scan at the National Heart Centre and certified heart disease free.

Even though reaching the top of Mt. Jiri is not an easy feat, but for those who make it, I believe it will be worth the effort. In that light, like many other Koreans, I would not wish for a cable car system to be built at Mt. Jiri even if it means easier access to the peak. We should learn to earn and appreciate the outcome of our hard work. If we can pay to get result, then the result probably means nothing. With cable car already operating at Mt. Seorak, that's enough.

I am not sure if I will make another attempt in future but even if I don't, I have no regret. The climb up Mt. Jiri has been a long time coming and now that I have made it there albeit unsuccessful, at least I have pushed my limit a little further. If I don't challenge myself, I will never know where my limit is.